Sumi-e, which translates to “ink painting,” inspired this collection. The color palette, textiles, and techniques draw from the late 12th century Japanese art form and are woven throughout the ten looks. Since the paintings stay within grayscale tones, the designs primarily feature black, gray, and white. However, vivid accents of red appear throughout, echoing the traditional red seals used by Japanese artists to sign their work. The brushstrokes in sumi-e are fluid and soft when depicting landscapes like waterfalls and flowers, but structured and precise for subjects like bamboo and birds. The fabrics and silhouettes in the collection vary, reflecting how each look’s inspiration is commonly rendered in sumi-e art.
The styling elements imitate the sumi-e brushstrokes and shapes in a more literal way. The collection incorporates ribbon skirts, representing water subjects, and gathered collars and dress necklines, representing mountains and green landscapes. The black shoes are meant to be the artists’ paintbrushes dipped into dark ink. The drawstring bags were painted with kanji by my mother, once more reflecting the inspiration behind each design. Growing up, I received similar bags in bright brocades that took the shape of fish and flowers. Like the artists’ seals, the bags’ kanji stamp is a unique identifier of each look. Muslin, typically used for garment patterning, was selected as the background fabric throughout the collection instead of a stark white cotton. The papery texture resembles the scroll that the artists used to create their designs.
The Chrysanthemum Mini
Every summer, I would hand my red Japanese passport to the customs officer. This marked the start of my annual summer journeys to Japan. The chrysanthemum, Japan’s imperial emblem, appears in a perfectly symmetrical, 16-petal golden design on the cover of every Japanese citizen’s passport.
The Chrysanthemum Mini features a black, gathered mini dress connected to a muslin collar, with delicate ribbons tied at the wrist. The gathering technique mirrors the flower’s abundant petals, while the ribbons echo the way a chrysanthemum’s petals fan outward from the center as it drifts beyond full bloom.
Modeled by Rachel Friedman
The Crane Set
One of my Japanese board books told the story of Tsuru no Ongaeshi, a woman who transformed into a crane at night and wove beautiful garments in secret for her husband to sell. She worked tirelessly and used her own feathers to craft the cloth, until her husband’s curiosity led him to discover her true form, causing her to fly away forever. The crane is a recurring image in Japanese culture, appearing not only in stories, but also in traditional paintings and origami.
The Crane Set includes a structured vest and matching trousers, worn with a simple tube top underneath. The clean vertical lines on the vest and pants evoke the crane’s slender legs and graceful neck, while the color palette mirrors the bird’s striking red and black markings on its face.
Modeled by Jess Gitre
The Koi Set
In May, on Children’s Day, a holiday that celebrates the growth and happiness of children, especially boys, koi-shaped streamers are hung in the sky. Koi, the colorful form of the common carp, are admired for their ability to swim upstream, symbolizing strength, perseverance, and vitality. They are a beloved motif in Japanese culture, often seen in zen gardens, traditional paintings, and kimono designs.
The Koi Set features a wraparound layer worn over a simple tube top and matching shorts. The cream quilting on the black fabric is designed to mimic the shimmer of light dancing across the water’s surface. Two koi-shaped side pockets, connected by thin, flowing strands, give the illusion of fish swimming across the garment.
Modeled by Samyu Yenamandra
The Farmer Set
My mother grew up in a house that overlooked wide stretches of rice fields. Each time we drove down the narrow road leading to her home, neighbors would be tending to their crops and gardens. They would wave, welcoming us back with warm smiles.
The Farmer Set consists of a woven tie-back top paired with loose parachute pants. The textured weave of the top pays homage to the traditional conical hats sometimes worn by farmers, while the silhouette of the pants reflects the shape of those tucked neatly into gardening boots.
Modeled by Katie Malley
The Hina Mini
In March, Japan celebrates Hinamatsuri, also known as Girl’s Day. My mother would decorate our home with elegant dolls dressed in layered, voluminous kimonos. Each doll sat gracefully, its kimono fanned out to the sides in a soft, triangular silhouette. My mother would prepare a celebratory meal, complete with fish cakes and carrots cut into delicate flower and heart shapes.
The Hina Mini is a dark gray and black mini dress featuring a ribboned underskirt. Its triangular structure echoes the shape of the Hinamatsuri dolls’ kimonos, while the underskirt alludes to the intricate layers and sashes that complete traditional kimono attire.
Modeled by Dresden Timco
The Waterfall Dress
Waterfalls are a cherished subject in Japanese sumi-e paintings, admired for their ability to embody both motion and tranquility. They are considered sacred places, believed to be inhabited by spirits. Some summers, we would hike through forested paths and temple grounds, where the trails were often graced by the sight and sound of small waterfalls.
The Waterfall Dress features a black gathered top paired with a pleated skirt, complemented by a flowing red shawl that transforms into a train. The solid black fabric represents the surrounding rocks and terrain, while the light, transparent red mesh evokes the cascade of water, capturing both its movement and ethereal beauty.
Modeled by Mae Monette
The Sakura Set
I have never seen the cherry blossoms in Japan, but I’ve visited them with my family in Washington, D.C., Minnesota, and Nashville, and now I see them every spring on Roosevelt Island. When I see them here in the U.S., it feels as though a small piece of Japan has bloomed beside me.
The Sakura Set highlights a pair of high-waisted pants and an open-side top, laced along the back and finished with a gathered collar that anchors cascading ribbons inspired by shidarezakura (“weeping cherry blossoms”). The straight-leg pants symbolize the sturdy trunk of the cherry tree, while the delicate ribbons encapsulate the drifting petals that sway gently from its flowering branches.
Modeled by Kate Louthain
The Bamboo Midi
We always seemed to be in Japan during Tanabata, the summer festival that celebrates the legend of Orihime and Hikoboshi, the star-crossed lovers who meet once a year across the Milky Way. One of my family members would cut a bamboo stalk from the mountain behind the house, and my sister and I would decorate it with colorful pieces of origami inscribed with our wishes for the coming year, following the festival’s traditions. Sometimes we wrote them in English, though we tried to use Japanese hiragana when we could.
The Bamboo Midi is a mid-length dress featuring horizontal cutouts and hanging pockets. Its elongated, segmented design mirrors the structure of a bamboo stalk, while the dangling pockets reference the origami ornaments tied to bamboo trees during Tanabata.
Modeled by Megan Scott
The Mountain Mini
Every morning when I woke up at my mother’s childhood home, I could hear the steady hum of cicadas echoing through the trees. Once, I even caught sight of a small monkey hidden among the branches. Growing up, we would watch Studio Ghibli films in that house, especially Tonari no Totoro, the movie that inspired my little sister’s name. I often wondered if our own mountain might be home to a Totoro-like spirit.
The Mountain Mini consists of a cream, quilted mini dress with a ribboned underskirt. The black quilting traces the mountain’s structure, while the flowing underskirt represents the trees and wild, living elements that flourish along its slopes. Like other minis in the collection, its triangular silhouette mirrors the mountain’s outline against the sky.
Modeled by Tiffany Banh
The Tombo Gown
Aka Tombo, meaning red dragonfly, is a lullaby from my childhood, its lyrics reflecting on the passage of time and the nostalgia of youth. It’s a fitting conclusion to the collection, a return to my earliest memories.
The Tombo Gown features a black dress with cream, gathered panels along the sides and a halo-like detail with a flowing red train. The straight black center evokes the slender body of a dragonfly, while the soft, airy skirt and trailing fabric capture the delicate movement of its wings in flight.
Modeled by Kiyomi Monette
A year ago, I sketched some ideas in my notebook and thought it would be exciting to make a collection. For the first few months, I didn’t believe that I could execute a full fashion show.
After buying a few yards of black fabric, which up until this point I had never bought more than a yard of one fabric, I brought some of my sketches to life. I started looking at potential venues and reaching out to friends to see if they would be models. I put together a plan estimating how long it would take me to make ten looks and bags. And I decided to do it. If you told 7-year-old Project-Runway-watching Kiara that this show was going to happen, I don’t think she would have believed you.
Without my amazing family and friends, this show would not have been possible. Everyone’s excitement for my show helped me get through countless hours of sewing and have the confidence to put my work on display. A special thank you to my terrific crew, including the models, photographers, videographers, and set-up personnel. They put many hours into this project, and I hope it is not lost on them how much I appreciate their work.
Photography credit to Kyle Gendreau (@60th_kid), Casey Dawson (@caseydawsn), and Azzama Bochenkova (@abocphoto).